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Maintaining & Repairing Drum Hardware
The focus here is on maintaining what
you already have.
Although the assortment of hardware available is huge and very varied, there are
a few basic questions which can be addressed and applied to hardware. These
include:
Let's consider these in order.
Does It Move?
'Movement' can include ball-and-socket
joints, angle joints, nuts, bolts, screws and rotation about pivots or bearings
(such as pedals). Where there is repeated movement, lubrication should be
considered.
ALWAYS CHECK that threads, pivots etc are lubricated. Some manufacturers use
BRASS threads which are self-lubricating and therefore, DO NOT need any extra
lubrication. Check them for cleanliness and for cross-threading or other thread
problems. Clean them with a soft cloth or tissue.
Screw threads on nuts and bolts can be lubricated with either clean oil (around
20w/50w used for cars is fine) or petroleum jelly (such as Vaseline™)applied
SPARINGLY. Work the nut/bolt in and out a few times to lubricate both the
'male' and 'female' threads. This will prolong the life of the thread. Please
note that if brass inserts are used, these are 'self-lubricating' and therefore,
DO NOT require any additional lubrication.
More specialised joints such as ball-and-socket or pivot joints are designed to
be moved and then LOCKED to prevent any further movement. UNDER NO
CIRCUMSTANCES should these be lubricated, or their function will be lost and
your drums etc will NOT be held where you want them (this also applies to
plastic or nylon 'bushes' used as part of a locking mechanism). To maintain
their life, DO NOT USE excessive force as they are designed to lock with
relatively little effort. TOO MUCH force and they will wear-out very quickly.
Replacement can be time consuming and expensive.
Where there are pivots such as on pedals, listen for 'squeaking' or 'grating'
noises, and IF NECESSARY lubricate SPARINGLY with a light oil. For ball races
and bearings, such as on bass drum pedals, check that they are well lubricated.
A slightly heavier oil is better here. Check that any chain-drives are
lubricated, again using a heavier oil or a purpose-designed chain lubricant
(available from motorcycle or mountain bike shops) applied SPARINGLY. Springs
may have an internal felt pad to which a light grade lubricating oil can be
added. This facilitates smooth action and helps to prevent corrosion.
Where tubes slide into one-another (telescopic) such as on cymbal stands, check
the tubes for damage or distortion which may stop or impair how well they slide
into each other. Many of these slide through plastic locking collars which can
be damaged by deep scratches on the tubing. Gentle filing and smoothing can be
used to remove 'burrs' and other sharp edges on scratches.
With cymbal tilters, check that the internal spring and washer assembly is
greased. If not, use a standard grease or petroleum jelly on all components.
Try to avoid getting any grease on surfaces which may lock the cymbal in place,
although this is less of a problem on tilters which use interlocking teeth (a
ratchet) to secure the tilter in place (select thumbnail below to view image
more clearly).
'Exploded View' of Cymbal Tilter Assembly
For snare drum stands of the
'basket-type', there is no need to lubricate collars which may slide over
another tube when raising or lowering the basket (unless you want oil on your
hands and clothes each time you pick the stand up or adjust it!). However, a
small amount of petroleum jelly can be applied into the pivots on the arms of
the basket if desired. Once again USE SPARINGLY.
Photograph of Snare Stand with Grease Points
Hi-hat stands have a sprung 'pulling
mechanism' which translates movement of the foot plate into an 'up and down'
movement of the hi-hat cymbals. There is NO NEED to lubricate where the top
section of the rod slides through the plastic guide/bottom hi-hat holder. Check
other moving parts and lubricate as necessary. Springs may have an internal
felt pad to which a light grade lubricating oil can be added. This facilitates
smooth action and helps to prevent corrosion.
Also check the presence and condition of the fibre 'washer' and the cymbal felt
which sit between the tilter mechanism and the lower hi-hat cymbal.
Check that all aspects of the hi-hat clutch work. It is very common for the
hi-hat clutch assembly PROTECTION around the central spindle to have
worn-through. If worn, replace with 2 or 3 turns of PTFE plumbing tape around
the central metal spindle in the position that the cymbals will be when secured
onto the clutch, by the felts. One can be limited as to materials to give this
protection, due to the diameter of central hi-hat spindle.
Photograph of Hi-Hat Assembly
Does the
Item have 'Add-Ons'?
The term 'add-on' is used here to describe
any separate piece of equipment which helps the hardware to perform the function
for which it was designed. These can include rubber feet, protective cymbal
felts, sleeves or plastic holders/protectors, snare support clamps or plastic
inserts for locking collars.
Cymbal stands usually have rubber feet on their base. Check that these are
firmly attached. In addition check that all of the plastic inserts are in place
(if present) and working properly. Ensure that there is PLASTIC between the
cymbals and metal rod on the tilter mechanism, and that there are TWO CYMBAL
FELTS present on the tilter. Cymbals are often protected from metal-to-metal
contact by either a plastic 'sleeve' which slides over the metal rod of the
tilter assembly, or via a plastic 'casting' which performs a dual
function of protection against metal-to-metal contact and holding the cymbal
felts.
On Snare Drum Stands check for the presence of rubber feet and plastic inserts
(if present), ensure that all rubber/plastic supports are securely in place on
the arms of the snare stand 'basket' assembly.
On the Hi-Hat Stand check for the presence of all rubber feet and plastic
inserts (if present) and for the presence of a fibre 'washer' (which sits
between the tilter mechanism for the lower hi-hat cymbal and the cymbal felt)
and the cymbal felt. In addition, check that all aspects of the hi-hat clutch
work. It is very common for the hi-hat clutch assembly to have DAMAGE to the
PROTECTION between cymbal and the metal of the clutch assembly. Try putting a
couple or 3 turns of PTFE plumbing tape around the central metal spindle at the
level where the cymbals will be when secured onto the clutch, by the felts. One
can be limited as to materials to give this protection, due the diameter of
central hi-hat spindle.
For Other Stands or Holders, check that all rubber feet and protectors are
present and secure (if applicable) and be sure to check for the presence of
cymbal felts and protection from metal-to-metal contact on cymbal arms/boom
arms.
Does It
have a Special Finish?
Most hardware has some sort of special
finish e.g., chromium plating, black chrome, paint or enamelling. Use an
appropriate commercially-produced cleaner or polish for the type of finish in
question. HOWEVER, dust and general 'light-weight' dirt can be easily removed
by rubbing over the surface with a dry (or slightly damp, followed by dry)
cloth. Where special finishes have been used, AVOID the use of abrasive
cleaners such as steel wool, unless removing corrosion. If you have steel
'unfinished' stands or clamps protect them with a very thin coating of light
oil, applied with a cloth. The product WD-40™ is good for this purpose and is
less 'greasy'.
A Word about
Rack Systems
Rack systems are quite popular. These consist of a main 'frame' or 'rack' onto
which mounting clamps are fixed. These clamps in-turn, secure the various
holders, cymbal arms, accessory clamps etc in a fixed position. Racks are very
good for 'memory locking' i.e., remembering where everything goes, for rapid
setting-up and consistency of set-up. Check over the rack and clamps as you
would for a new stand, concentrating on moving parts and 'add-ons' as above.
Avoid using any lubrication where friction is required to hold clamps in place
or where the clamps themselves, hold other items in place. This is especially
important with racks which use round, tubular frames such as those manufactured
by Gibraltar.
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